Tuesday, 15 December 2009

Screwdrivers and other tools

Would you like a Screwdriver? If you're stuck for an answer, let me rephrase. Would you like a vodka orange? As a cocktail name, a "Screwdriver" struggles to justify itself. It's confusing to name a combination of just two ingredients. Martinis are fine because of the ritual involved in making one. Screwdrivers? No.

In Quentin Tarantino's Jackie Brown, Samuel L Jackson's character is partial to a Screwdriver. But he never asks for vodka orange. It's one of Tarantino's branding exercises, in the same way a "Royal with Cheese" will forever invoke Jules and Vince in Pulp Fiction.

Odd drink choices crop up in all sorts of films. In another Tarantino picture, Inglourious Bastards, Christopher Waltz's SS man orders milk, the childish beverage sharply contrasting with his sheer calculating nastiness. Warren Beatty's tough gambler in McCabe and Mrs Miller likes a raw egg and whiskey, while Sally Bowles' bohemian in Cabaret prefers raw egg and brandy. Jack Palance's bad guy in the Western Shane drinks black coffee from a black coffee pot. No one orders quadruple whiskies except characters in Withnail & I.

What I think is different about Screwdrivers in Jackie Brown is that the drink seems close to the very essence of the film. It's very cool and a little retro. The examples above however are mere moments, giving brief insights into a character. The only comparable example I can think of is White Russians, drunk throughout the Big Lebowski. Somehow that silky, sickly combination of milk, Kahlua and vodka matches exactly the laid-back weirdness of the film. Mine's a Mojito.

Tuesday, 8 December 2009

Duck a la wrong


The Tour D'Argent, France's oldest restaurant, has been flogging off some of its wine collection to make way for new stocks.

It's quite a collection too: 18,000 were expected to be sold from a cellar of 430,000. Sadly, even if you had a few thousand euros knocking about, the sale is now over and the "middle-aged, besuited men" got in there first.

The restaurant is also known for its signature dish, Canard a la Presse, marrying haute cuisine and heavy industry. It's created by roasting a whole duck rare, removing the breasts and legs, then crushing the carcass in a bizarre apparatus which looks straight out of the fine brass ware wing at the Tower of London. The ground up bones and other bits create a kind of duck smoothie to use in the sauce.

FX Cuisine has a photographic guide to its creation. Try not to think of Jemima.

There are some delicious vegetarian alternatives to the most unexpected items. Veggie haggis and black pudding come to mind. Good luck to the chef who takes on this one though. Goat's Curd a la Power Drill anyone?